Machu Picchu

    Our final day in Machu Picchu was a mix of indulgent happiness (happiness that we could sleep in), wonder at the history that Carlos revealed to us, and excitement about the final leg of our journey, Lake Titicaca.

     Again, our leader, Carlos proved himself to be as captivating a historian as he was a naturalist.  Sadly though, we find ourselves confronting the fact that "history is written by the victors".  And the stories that we had read about Hiram Bingham lll the "discoverer" of Machu Picchu were far from what really went on. Al called him a conquistador wrapped in a different flag.

     We hope that, as Carlos so passionately does, the artifacts (treasures) that Bingham removed from Peru will be returned, and that Bingham and his exploits will be seen in their proper light.

Sun Gate and Machu Picchu

    It is amazing to me that a full month has passed since we arrived home from Peru, and yet this blog, begun with excellent intentions is yet not done.  Let's just say that grandchildren, the arrival of spring and the need/hope to deal with all things outdoors, never mind the fever to get on the bikes again, has derailed me!

      But enough, on with the trek!

     Day 3 of the Inca Trail  brought us to see a number of stunning Inca sites.  This part of the trail was far less demanding and shorter than the first two days.  Good thing for Al, since tummy troubles hit him with a vengeance!   Tummy troubles affected a fair number of our group, however, I have to say that I was amazed by the concern, thoughtfulness and willingness of each person to help the other.  I think the reason we like adventure holidays so much is the kinship that grows so quickly from a shared and appreciated challenge, amongst a group of strangers.  Fitting perhaps that this was the day that we would leave an offering to the Inca gods!

     On the fourth day we were up early again to a stunningly beautiful clear blue sky.  As with the other mornings were awoken by one of the porters knocking on our tent and offering a bowl of hot water for washing and a cup of hot tea.  Such luxury, it was exquisite.

     The early clear sky gave way to clouds, cool temperatures and misty drizzle as we first descended to Winay Wayna then down through the cloud forest before proceeding to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku) and what  Carlos called the "oh my gawd steps" a column of Inca steps that defy description!

     For us the clouds and drizzle added a kind of mystical quality to our trek to this special place.

     We waited patiently for the clouds to part and show us Machu Picchu below.  The effect was spectacular.  It was as if nature was going to reveal this place in its own time and way.  This was no mere tourist stop or scenic spot to be photographed and forgotten.  After the days and effort of trekking we had to wait.  And then it happened, little by little, the veil was lifted and there it was.  Breathtaking, beautiful and incomprehensible.

 We descended the last short distance at once enchanted and exhilarated that we had made it.  Exploration of the site and our learning about it was to wait for the next day.  Where we headed first was to the natural hot springs of Augus Calientus.  A hot soak and a couple of cold pisco sours was the best therapy for the weary wanderer!

Dead Woman's Pass

     Dead Woman's Pass.  The name, let alone the dizzying climb (4,215m) is intimidating.  Who were we, flat landers from Manitoba, to dare it?

     For us, and probably the rest of the group, this was going to be the big test, the backbreaker.  Would we make it?  Could we make it?  That question was in the forefront of our minds long before we left for Peru.

     And yes, it was very very hard, but not impossible.  Our wonderful guide, Carlos, made sure we got through.  Always attentive to how we were doing, he never let the group split too far apart, making sure the Speedy Gonzales would stop and wait for the rest to rejoin.

      The day began with a steady climb leading through a place of extraordinary beauty, the cloud forest, one of the highest forests in the world.

     The air was cool, pure and fragrant.  As we passed to look at all around us, Carlos told us that this was his favorite place, as he could feel its energy fill him.  Truly, this is an enchanted world!

Our pictures do not do it justice and so I give you this passage from E.O.Wilson ( Biophilia The human bond with other species.)

"the cloud forest, a labyrinth of interlocking trunks and branches blanketed by a thick layer of mass, orchids, and other epiphytes that run unbroken off the trees and across the ground.  To follow game trails across this high country was like crawling through a dimly illuminated cave lined with a spongy green carpet."

The trail led on.  With head pounding, heart racing, often searching for air, we climbed higher and higher.  And then the pass came into view.

We had read a few books on the Inca Trail, none explained the name, Warmihaunusa (Dead Woman's Pass).  You can see in the picture above, how the shape of the mountain looks like a dead, or as Carlos said, sleeping woman.  Starting on the left, let your eye follow the ridge downward to a short, sharp drop- the eye.  Continue downward along and under the nose.  Continue still down along the upper lip and chin.  The lowest part of the ridge becomes the neck, with a medallion (the little hill).  Then let your eye follow up and over the breast - Silicone as Carlos put it!

Accomplishing this part of the trek was a moment of great pride and exhilaration.

Looking back we could see other hikers, ant like in size, working their way upwards.  And then we looked o the other side of the pass only to see the trail wind and drop until it became but a thread in the distance.  This was the path we still had to follow before camp that night!  No rest for the weary!

We finally arrived at the valley of Pacamayo River where we camped for the night.

 The view from our tent was spectacular!

That night we were all relieved and proud we had accomplished the days journey.  I slept like a log that night.