Saturday, June 4, 2011

Uros Floating Islands

     In only two short weeks, our  experience left us with a remarkable appreciation of how vastly rich and varied Peru is in landscape, history, climate and culture- from the muddy, hot trails through the Rainforest of the Tambopata Reserve, to the markets, artisans and restaurants along the steep and narrow streets of historic Cusco to the cloud forest and Inca Trail, across the Altiplano to Raqchi and the ruins of the temple of Wiracocha, and then La Raya with its views of the snow-capped Andies, and finally to Puno and Lake Titicaca, and the Uros floating Islands and a home stay on Amantani Island.










 This island is completely man-made with reeds. As are the houses and boats.












 This holiday was a profound learning experience.  But alas, Al is only human and provided great entertainment as he snored.
 The long ten hour bus ride from Cusco to Puno gave all of us a chance to doze, catch up with our travel notes and reminisce about our latest experiences including my moment of fame entertaining the group when the women of the floating island chose me to model their traditional dress.



Okay, enough with the humor!  Now on a more serious note ... education.  Particularly in these troubled times the urgency of broadening ones perspective in order to at least appreciate, if not understand the "other" cannot be overstated.  Sadly, thought and cultural sensitivity does not abound.  This could not have been more clear than in that moment  in a market at Raqchi when a woman from the U.S. picked up a hand crafted plate and asked the seller "is this microwaveable?".........

       I am no historian nor do I think I am well informed about the history of Peru, however,I intend to keep learning.  Earlier today, a friend of ours and follower of this blog sent the following link about the discovery of Machu Pichu.  (Thank-you Qurie)  It is well worth a read.

     http://www.independent.co.uk/news/wo rld/americas/so-was-the-lost-city-of-machu-picchu-ever-lost-1058004.html

Friday, June 3, 2011

Machu Picchu

    Our final day in Machu Picchu was a mix of indulgent happiness (happiness that we could sleep in), wonder at the history that Carlos revealed to us, and excitement about the final leg of our journey, Lake Titicaca.

     Again, our leader, Carlos proved himself to be as captivating a historian as he was a naturalist.  Sadly though, we find ourselves confronting the fact that "history is written by the victors".  And the stories that we had read about Hiram Bingham lll the "discoverer" of Machu Picchu were far from what really went on. Al called him a conquistador wrapped in a different flag.

     We hope that, as Carlos so passionately does, the artifacts (treasures) that Bingham removed from Peru will be returned, and that Bingham and his exploits will be seen in their proper light.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Sun Gate and Machu Picchu

    It is amazing to me that a full month has passed since we arrived home from Peru, and yet this blog, begun with excellent intentions is yet not done.  Let's just say that grandchildren, the arrival of spring and the need/hope to deal with all things outdoors, never mind the fever to get on the bikes again, has derailed me!

      But enough, on with the trek!

     Day 3 of the Inca Trail  brought us to see a number of stunning Inca sites.  This part of the trail was far less demanding and shorter than the first two days.  Good thing for Al, since tummy troubles hit him with a vengeance!   Tummy troubles affected a fair number of our group, however, I have to say that I was amazed by the concern, thoughtfulness and willingness of each person to help the other.  I think the reason we like adventure holidays so much is the kinship that grows so quickly from a shared and appreciated challenge, amongst a group of strangers.  Fitting perhaps that this was the day that we would leave an offering to the Inca gods!










     On the fourth day we were up early again to a stunningly beautiful clear blue sky.  As with the other mornings were awoken by one of the porters knocking on our tent and offering a bowl of hot water for washing and a cup of hot tea.  Such luxury, it was exquisite.





     The early clear sky gave way to clouds, cool temperatures and misty drizzle as we first descended to Winay Wayna then down through the cloud forest before proceeding to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku) and what  Carlos called the "oh my gawd steps" a column of Inca steps that defy description!







     For us the clouds and drizzle added a kind of mystical quality to our trek to this special place.










     We waited patiently for the clouds to part and show us Machu Picchu below.  The effect was spectacular.  It was as if nature was going to reveal this place in its own time and way.  This was no mere tourist stop or scenic spot to be photographed and forgotten.  After the days and effort of trekking we had to wait.  And then it happened, little by little, the veil was lifted and there it was.  Breathtaking, beautiful and incomprehensible.





















 We descended the last short distance at once enchanted and exhilarated that we had made it.  Exploration of the site and our learning about it was to wait for the next day.  Where we headed first was to the natural hot springs of Augus Calientus.  A hot soak and a couple of cold pisco sours was the best therapy for the weary wanderer!