Dead Woman's Pass

     Dead Woman's Pass.  The name, let alone the dizzying climb (4,215m) is intimidating.  Who were we, flat landers from Manitoba, to dare it?

     For us, and probably the rest of the group, this was going to be the big test, the backbreaker.  Would we make it?  Could we make it?  That question was in the forefront of our minds long before we left for Peru.

     And yes, it was very very hard, but not impossible.  Our wonderful guide, Carlos, made sure we got through.  Always attentive to how we were doing, he never let the group split too far apart, making sure the Speedy Gonzales would stop and wait for the rest to rejoin.

      The day began with a steady climb leading through a place of extraordinary beauty, the cloud forest, one of the highest forests in the world.

     The air was cool, pure and fragrant.  As we passed to look at all around us, Carlos told us that this was his favorite place, as he could feel its energy fill him.  Truly, this is an enchanted world!

Our pictures do not do it justice and so I give you this passage from E.O.Wilson ( Biophilia The human bond with other species.)

"the cloud forest, a labyrinth of interlocking trunks and branches blanketed by a thick layer of mass, orchids, and other epiphytes that run unbroken off the trees and across the ground.  To follow game trails across this high country was like crawling through a dimly illuminated cave lined with a spongy green carpet."

The trail led on.  With head pounding, heart racing, often searching for air, we climbed higher and higher.  And then the pass came into view.

We had read a few books on the Inca Trail, none explained the name, Warmihaunusa (Dead Woman's Pass).  You can see in the picture above, how the shape of the mountain looks like a dead, or as Carlos said, sleeping woman.  Starting on the left, let your eye follow the ridge downward to a short, sharp drop- the eye.  Continue downward along and under the nose.  Continue still down along the upper lip and chin.  The lowest part of the ridge becomes the neck, with a medallion (the little hill).  Then let your eye follow up and over the breast - Silicone as Carlos put it!

Accomplishing this part of the trek was a moment of great pride and exhilaration.

Looking back we could see other hikers, ant like in size, working their way upwards.  And then we looked o the other side of the pass only to see the trail wind and drop until it became but a thread in the distance.  This was the path we still had to follow before camp that night!  No rest for the weary!

We finally arrived at the valley of Pacamayo River where we camped for the night.

 The view from our tent was spectacular!

That night we were all relieved and proud we had accomplished the days journey.  I slept like a log that night.

Inca Trail

     You might find information gleaned from various brochures interesting.  Machu Pichu which means "old mountain",  is located in the District of Machupicchu, Province of  Urubamba, 72.5 miles northwest of Cusco by rail.  It is part of the Vilcabamba Batolite formation, a mass of igneous rock 250 million years old consisting most commonly of a grayish-white granite.   Chronologically, it belongs to the period of the Inka State (c.1430 A.D.).

     From the city of Cusco there are two roads or royal highways which are two thousand miles long.  One goes along the plains while the other along the mountain tops.  The Inca Trail is a system of roads setting out from different points which lead to the Inca city of Machu Pichu.  The length of this trail is 35,450m.

    This trek would be the most challenging thing I have done.  I had prepared hard for this and I was ready!  The first day was the longest in terms of distance (15 km), rolling in terms of ascent and 2570m above sea level.  Most of us experienced headache and shortness of breath.  To minimize effect of high altitude, we drank coca tea and ate coca candies.

     Our group included guides and porters who carried our baggage, tents, food and even our commode.  These men are amazing in their ability to carry their substantial loads and run along the trails undaunted by the at times sheer drop along the sides of the trail.  Most wore only sandals, running shoes or flip flops.  A common occurence was the call of "porter" requiring us to move aside allowing the porters to pass.

 At the end of each day the porters set up our tents and had basins of hot water ready for us to clean up for "afternoon tea".

  It was amazing to have a chef with us on the trail, such wonderful desserts like banana flambe.  We quickly learned the term "yappa" which means more and "sumak" which means delicious.

 The nights proved cold, but I can honestly say I slept well even though tenting is NOT my thing.

Tomorrow, Dead Woman's Pass!

Cusco

     Cusco was the centre of the Inca Empire and believed to be the oldest inhabited city in the Western Hemisphere. It is 3480m high in the Andes and about 39 miles from the Sacred Valley of the Incas.  This is where we would spend time acclimatizing to the altitude in preparation for our trek.

      We sampled a local purple corn drink, ate dishes including alpaca kebabs, ceviche, and lamb stew.  The food is delicious.  We took a walking tour of the city and visited  shops where we shopped and some of us who were initially reluctant,  were persuaded to purchase beautiful rugs and the like.  I am sure there are no regrets to this day!

    The next day Al (with my permission) decided to go white water rafting on the Rio Urubamba with some of the guys.  They obviously enjoyed themselves immensely.  Al's comment was "We had manly fun."  I will add he sunburned his feet pretty badly, but luckily this did not interfere with his trekking.

I on the other hand did some sightseeing and shopping ( my children and grandchildren are very thankful for this sacrifice on my part).  I found the best shopping buddies anyone could ask for.  I am proud to say we became experts in the cost of jewelry, especially necklaces!!

As you can see Cusco has many faces which are vastly different.  It is a beautiful city, one which would require far more time to explore than we had because the next day we left to start our trek to Machu Pichu !