Travels: Dead Woman's Pass

   Dead Woman's Pass. The name, let alone the dizzying climb (4,215m) is intimidating. Who were we, flat landers from Manitoba, to dare it?

   For us, and probably the rest of the group, this was going to be the big test, the backbreaker. Would we make it? Could we make it? That question was in the forefront of our minds long before we left for Peru.

   And yes, it was very very hard, but not impossible. Our wonderful guide, Carlos, made sure we got through. Always attentive to how we were doing, he never let the group split too far apart, making sure the Speedy Gonzales would stop and wait for the rest to rejoin.

   The day began with a steady climb leading through a place of extraordinary beauty, the cloud forest, one of the highest forests in the world.

   The air was cool, pure and fragrant. As we passed to look at all around us, Carlos told us that this was his favorite place, as he could feel its energy fill him. Truly, this is an enchanted world!

Our pictures do not do it justice and so I give you this passage from E.O.Wilson ( Biophilia The human bond with other species.)

"the cloud forest, a labyrinth of interlocking trunks and branches blanketed by a thick layer of mass, orchids, and other epiphytes that run unbroken off the trees and across the ground. To follow game trails across this high country was like crawling through a dimly illuminated cave lined with a spongy green carpet."

The trail led on. With head pounding, heart racing, often searching for air, we climbed higher and higher. And then the pass came into view.

We had read a few books on the Inca Trail, none explained the name, Warmihaunusa (Dead Woman's Pass). You can see in the picture above, how the shape of the mountain looks like a dead, or as Carlos said, sleeping woman. Starting on the left, let your eye follow the ridge downward to a short, sharp drop- the eye. Continue downward along and under the nose. Continue still down along the upper lip and chin. The lowest part of the ridge becomes the neck, with a medallion (the little hill). Then let your eye follow up and over the breast - Silicone as Carlos put it!

Accomplishing this part of the trek was a moment of great pride and exhilaration.

Looking back we could see other hikers, ant like in size, working their way upwards. And then we looked o the other side of the pass only to see the trail wind and drop until it became but a thread in the distance. This was the path we still had to follow before camp that night! No rest for the weary!